The brisket is sat centre stage, ingot-sized, if not looking anything like so appealing. But tucking in, it breaks into beautifully moist meaty shreds in the ‘pulled style’… a Jenga-style pile of roasted parsnips and carrots, shredded collard greens… READ MORE
The scallops are cooked well, although they lack a caramelised, seared crust. The bonbons provide crunch, but in terms of flavour they are as near to crab and lobster, as prawn is to cracker. Nor could I get any sense of truffle oil in the pea velouté—‘mushy peas’ in all but name… READ MORE
The baby kale leaves are straight from kindergarten and salad fresh, combining beautifully with the thinly sliced, rasher style pancetta, the salty blue kick from the stilton and the scattering of crispy onions providing a crunch too... READ MORE
My Massaman curry arrives, looking the part—chunks of lamb and potato with chopped peanut and coriander garnish. I’m immediately hit by the power of the sauce; it’s just the right side of being over salted. But, by the third mouthful it’s just flat-lined… READ MORE
The food arrives to save us from the noise, the burrata isn’t remotely smoked and is without tapenade. The cheesy garlic bread is a disappointment too; lacking probably the most essential ingredient you’d expect… garlic… READ MORE
The Iberico presa being a beautifully cooked, succulent slab from the shoulder and the pork cheek is slow cooked, shredded gorgeousness in a crispy croquette style, joyously vibrating with char siu flavours… READ MORE
I’ve been eating for what seems like fifteen minutes before discovering everything on my plate. There’s mash, roast potatoes, crushed swede, carrots, peas, kale and red cabbage that has a lovely tangy crunch to it and none of the usual mulled spices that tend to overpower it… READ MORE
The beef is completely well done despite having ordered it rare, it’s got freezer pack, pre-cooked Yorkshire pudding written all over it and I suspect it’s a similar story with the potatoes (all suspiciously the same size and shape)… READ MORE
The burrata perfectly encapsulates the last throes of summer, sat in its drizzle of lemon and oil and dressed with finely chopped chilli and accompanied by a thick slice of sourdough. On cutting into the burrata, its delicately sweet, creamy centre oozes out… READ MORE
The tamarind chicken—coated, deep fried wings topped with peanuts and spring onions—are crunchy, succulent, bursting with flavour and sticky too, meaning the accompanying finger bowls are absolutely necessary. This is my new fried chicken high benchmark… READ MORE
Before long the piles of fish pakora arrive, and it’s easy to see why they’ve achieved legendary status, being subtly spiced and beautifully succulent under the crunch of batter. The chicken wings are also a delight– plump and juicy with a hint of spicy heat… READ MORE
Toppings are very much in the centre, leaving swathes of naked crusts, ideal for the crust dips we’ve also ordered—two squid ink aiolis and a fermented hot sauce—for a delicious dunking finale. I finish first, hovering to see if there are any crusts left by the others but, rather disappointingly, everyone has the same goal… READ MORE
Nothing improves the swagger of a pizza quite like gorgonzola, but when I said I can’t actually taste the gorgonzola on mine there returned a chorus of “nor can you on mine.” READ MORE
We choose beğendi—a mushy roasted aubergine dish very much like a baba ganoush; menemen—egg poached in a tomato sauce with peppers in the style of a baked huevos rancheros without the chilli; and kuru misket köfte—beef meatballs… READ MORE
