Upstairs at Grace + James
SATURDAY NIGHT FEVER
THE FOOD OFFER IS NOW DIFFERENT AT GRACE + JAMES TO THAT WRITTEN ABOUT HERE
It’s been five weeks since they’ve launched their small plates menu and I can barely believe I’ve left it so long. One of the many things I love about their two-doors-down-sister restaurant Poli—quite apart from the best pizza in Birmingham—are their perfectly formed, mostly wood-fired small plates, which have meant, on a couple of occasions, I’ve had an entire meal without any pizza.
The family are in Paris without me and as luck would have it, a mate—from the wrong side of town—calls asking if I fancy a night out. At this late stage, even third and fourth choice ‘meet halfway’ city centre options are reduced to 5pm tables, so we’ve even discussed a day trip to London. Eventually, practicality takes over when I confidently suggest his trek from Sutton Coldfield to Kings Heath would be worth it.
Gilda
We kick off with snacks to amuse the bouche and ease us into the drink. First up are Gilda, named after a Rita Hayworth’s femme fatale character in the eponymous 1946 movie. There’s spicy heat from pickled guindilla chili, sassy funk from a plump, fleshy Gordal olive, deep sea saltiness from a meaty Cantabrian anchovy fillet and crunch from cornichon. Magnifica!
Jamon croquettes, aioli
Then, three large croquetas throw us into a disagreement about whether they are better than Barrafina’s benchmark version; when I say disagree, I’m saying they are just as good, whilst Julian thinks they’re better. What we don’t disagree on is the sheer magic within a crisp, breadcrumb coat that’s barely able to contain its gooey, cheese laden béchamel centre, flecked with—clearly no ordinary—sweet and salty jamon. And aioli too. Espléndido!
Croquette oozing joy
We’ve also got ‘best in breed’ focaccia; spongy, airy body with an oily, salted and thick crust. I’m doing my best to resist eating it all in one go, but giving up fags would probably be easier. Perfetta!
House focaccia
When the potatoes, peas, mint, and Spenwood lands, I’m momentarily disappointed from a timings point of view but it only takes one forkful to realise this is cheesy peas on steroids. It’s equally bold and subtle with wonderfully pitched mint combining with the sweet piquancy of Ewe’s milk Spenwood that glows a light on the soft bite of buttery new potatoes alongside the gorgeous fibrous mush of marrowfat peas. Bostin!
New potatoes, peas, mint, Spenwood
The marinated tomato salad is ‘foot to the floor’ simple pleasure; a chocolate striped tomato variety equally sweet and tangy with sublime acidity, maximised by the wonderful flamenco flavours of sherry vinegar, fine chopped red onion and peppery anise from basil. Simple, best quality ingredients with flavours nudged along by each other is all I want from food and my pleasure is completed by still having focaccia for mopping. Exquisito!
Marinated tomato salad, sherry vinegar, basil
Then carbonara-style fresh tagliatelle makes a full on attempt to seduce my palate with the sweet earthiness of girolles; silky, creamy egg yolk; piquant Spenwood and the liquorice kiss of tarragon. It’s a tad heavy on the salt, but the pleasure dial is still touching eight.
Tagliatelle, girolles, tarragon, Spenwood, egg yolk
Our final dish is a supermodel-gorgeous, rotund slab of porchetta with golden crunchy crackling and the best of pork; fatty, succulent belly and lean loin in equal measure, stuffed, rolled and slow roasted. It’s sweet and savoury flavours amplified by the fresh zing of gremolata loaded with peppery parsley, garlic, lemon and grassy olive oil. Bellissima!
Porchetta, gremolata
With the family away and ever the opportunist, we’ve decided on a proper night out, so have been relatively restrained with the wine; managing just three glasses each, across orange, white and red. The standout is a superb Riesling, quietly aromatic and tropical with divine salinity.
It’s been a meal that’s very much about simplicity, letting combinations of quality, seasonal ingredients shine and there’s a well curated, short natural wine list too. I know it won’t be anything like five weeks before I’m back, although I can’t imagine I’ll be able to get a table at such short notice for too much longer.
We settle up a thoroughly well-deserved bill of £125.75 (£63.75 food / £62.00 drink) plus tip and head over the road to the Hare and Hounds for some late night disco action.
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED
23 York Road, Kings Heath, Birmingham, B14 7SA
https://graceandjames.xyz/
