Verbena
LOVE THY NEIGHBOUR
Verbena slots into Stirchley High Street as effortlessly and snugly as a Tetris block. Just a couple of doors down from Couch—everyone’s favourite cocktail bar—it’s neighbourhood dining personified, offering a casual space that’s smart but no frills and a daily changing, seasonal modern British menu.
Verbena interior
It’s a very affordable £25 for 2 or £30 for 3 courses, including bread—a treacle and granary roll with homemade butter and bee pollen—and petit fours. There are three options on each course covering the needs of vegetarians, pescatarians and carnivores.
But before we’re ready to contemplate the food options, we’re snagged by the apéritifs. The Psychopomp Woden gin and tonic promises and delivers grapefruit and fennel and a Verbellini, their signature cocktail—developed in partnership with Couch—with lemon verbena, nectarine puree and natural sparkling wine, that has the girls practically frothing with excitement.
Between the four of us, we’ve got all the starter options on the table, with two of the aged mozzarella and heritage tomato. Unfortunately it’s nothing to get excited about as the lightly savoury-sharp edge of the aged mozzarella demands sweet, fully flavoured tomatoes—as indeed any mozzarella should—but these are disappointingly devoid of even the faintest scent of tomato.
Aged mozzarella & heritage tomato
I’ve got a 50% interest on two starters, with my first being roasted leeks that’s sweet, earthy and grassy leek magnified to the power of 10. Grated Double Barrel Lincolnshire Poacher throws savoury nuttiness into the mix, working in tandem with the smoky, slightly bitter, burnt leek powder. On reaching the halfway point I’m rather smitten and regret having to hand it over.
Roasted leek, Double Barrel & burnt leek powder
Once we’ve swapped plates it looks like I’ve been left with just a third of the courgette tempura. In three fabulous mouthfuls it’s gone and I know I’ve been robbed. There’s light crunch from the batter, sweet juiciness from courgette, a meaty, salty, fiery kick from ‘nduja and fresh cooling, lemon scented creaminess from whipped ricotta.
Courgette tempura, ‘nduja & ricotta
We’re already two thirds through a Judith Beck Weissburgunder—a light and slightly off dry white with plenty of pear and peaches—so we order a red to ease us through the mains. It’s an excellent Gravillas Sous les Cailloux des Grillons, that’s smooth drinking with dark fruit and just a hint of spice.
For the mains, two have gone for the pan-fried mackerel with tenderstem and roasted Jersey royals. Unfortunately both are in agreement the mackerel is completely over seasoned, trouncing all the potential of the dish.
Pan-fried mackerel and tenderstem
We’ve also got two of the lamb rumps, with potato terrine and buttered greens. The terrine has crispy-crunch giving way to meltingly soft layers, but it’s very much on the salty side; although the sweetness of the blushing-pink, tender lamb with a chimichurri-style herby zing allows it to just about pull through.
Lamb rump & potato terrine
When it comes to dessert, one of our group—having had the tomato and mozzarella followed by the mackerel—understandably opts out. Unfortunately it’s a decision that turns out to be a further piece of terrible luck on his part.
We’ve got a chocolate custard tart, that’s a perfectly pitched hit of chocolate comfort with sweet, whipped caramel and a wonderfully thin, crumbly sweet pastry. I enthuse so much I’m offered a second forkful and respond with more speed and even less etiquette than you’d expect at Merry Hill on Black Friday. It really is that good.
Chocolate custard tart with whipped caramel
As it happens, I’m more than happy with my lemon meringue white chocolate bombe; toasted soft whipped meringue on top of a sweet lemon citrusy curd, encased in delicate white chocolate, sitting on top of a biscuit providing crunch. It totally manages to be both delicate and bold, sophisticated yet slutty.
Lemon meringue white chocolate bombe
We’ve also got a cheese board that’s as good a selection of five cheeses as I’ve ever enjoyed. On quantity alone I’d be delighted at shelling out the £10 price tag for them at any farmers’ market—supplied by long-standing local favourites Curds & Whey. I’m not sure which cheese is ringing which taste bell but my palate is ringing more joyously than a campanologist’s Sunday morning peal.
Cheese board - Reblochon, Ewe’s Brie, Admiral Collingwood, Double Barrel and Forme d’Ambert
The bill arrives with petit fours and it’s £206 plus tip. At just over £50 a head, for me it’s a few tweaks away from fabulous, although it’s fair to say, it’s not a view shared entirely across the table.
I’d happily have ordered another bottle of red to properly savour the cheese, but we’re already the last in the room and we’re also late for our table at Couch for post-dinner cocktails.
After all, it’s the neighbourly thing to do.
WORTH A TRY
1474 Pershore Road, Stirchley B30 2NT
