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1000 Trades

1000 Trades

FRANKIE SAYS

It’s another Sunday and another pub roast, that’s becoming a very pleasant habit; perfect now the clocks have gone back. 

Despite being just a stone’s throw from the city centre, 1000 Trades has got the atmosphere of a hub-of-the-community, country pub, including roaring log burner and dog-friendly vibes. I’m completely smitten by an adorable, exquisitely behaved Weimaraner who’s been brought into work by one of the bar staff… it’s so completely that kind of pub.

We’re with old friends and their daughter too and whilst I’d ordinarily worry for the patience of a nine year old­—OK, OK… my patience—Frankie is not only fully self-sufficient with a puzzle book, she’s also keeping us fully entertained with her precocious wit.

Three of us have gone for the lamb and two for the beef, but we’re all gutted to hear that they’ve already run out of the cauliflower cheese to share. Even at £7 I think we were genuinely up for two, even three, but Frankie’s quiz questions are coming too thick and fast for us to get too maudlin. 

My roasted saddle of Gower salt marsh lamb is a wonderfully tender, thick slice of delicately sweet-grassy and samphire-salty, rolled loin cooked perfectly pink. There’s nothing on the plate that’s not contributing to a full massage of the palate both in terms of flavour or texture—a gorgeously sweet parsnip puree; soft crunch from red wine-braised red cabbage; optimally fluffy centred, crisp-roast potatoes; perfect on the bite tenderstem; the comfort of creamed leeks; a huge, nobbly and gnarly Yorkshire pudding; a ball of crusty, herb-laced stuffing; honey glazed heritage carrots and a jug of “proper gravy”. It’s a properly proper Sunday roast, and completely makes the yearning for cauliflower cheese redundant.

Saddle of Gower salt marsh lamb

I’m too engrossed with my own plate to register any interest from the beef eaters, although it’s easy to notice Frankie’s desire to resume the quiz has proved greater than any urge to engage with her food. But, her Mum is fully enthused and her Dad is quick to polish off the remains on Frankie’s plate.

Roast beef

Before the dessert order is placed we’re in full catch up mode that warrants another 500ml carafe of Tempranillo ‘Damson Spice’ and a 250ml carafe of the Trebbiano / Chardonnay ‘Cantaloupe Melon’.

When the ‘crumble and custards’ arrive I find myself exchanging doubtful and disappointed glances with Frankie. Yeah, we heard the explanation about crème pâte being thickened custard, but this looks like it needs both crumble and custard. 

Apple crumble, crème pâte

But, just two doubtful spoonfuls in, I’m already fully warming to it. The vanilla flavour runs creamy deep, the large pieces of apple have just the right kind of bite and the crusty, sweet crumb releases lemon into the mix. I’m as smitten with this as I am with the dog, although Frankie says she doesn’t like it and leaves it largely untouched. 

Kirsty’s gone for the British cheeseboard with chutney and Miller’s toast, that’s a decent haul for just eight English pounds and perfect to help shift the last of the wine.

British cheese board

The bill with tip is £225 and I’m fully expecting Frankie will be outraged given the amount of food she’s eaten, but her Dad steps in before she’s even aware there’s a bill.

It goes without saying Birmingham has an embarrassment of riches when it comes to curries and fine dining, but even two years ago it was hard to predict we’d be in that same position with the Sunday roast. And despite stellar competition from—amongst others—The Red Lion, The Highfield, Upstairs at Grace+James, The Old Crown, The Oyster Club, Pulperia and Low ‘n’ Slow at Hockley Social Club… I’m happy to declare 1000 Trades my current favourite. 

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED (SUNDAY ROAST) 10/10

1000 Trades, 16 Frederick Street, Jewellery Quarter, Birmingham B1 3HE

www.1000trades.org.uk

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