Brat x Climpson's Arch
THE GREAT FIRE OF LONDON
Losing our daughter to university has at least introduced us to new areas of London, although in reality that just means new restaurants. In year one, notable highlights were Salon (now deceased) in Brixton Village and Artusi in Peckham, followed, in year two by Oklava (also now deceased) and Manteca in Shoreditch. Year three has brought ‘us’ to Hackney and having already enjoyed Bright (yet another now deceased), it now brings us here. I’m seriously hoping we’re not the kiss of death.
On arrival, I fire up Google maps checking we haven’t taken a wrong turn on our amble through London Fields. I certainly wasn’t expecting a railway arch extended out the front like a Perspex covered and concrete floored, smoker-friendly ‘pub outdoor room’. Purple plastic ‘community hall’ chairs and foldaway tables to complete the look.
The board of dreams
But, there’s nothing in the world that can be more welcoming than the five-foot, hand-written blackboard detailing the day’s menu that reads to me like my eight-year-old’s Christmas list; I want everything. Then, there’s the theatre of the open kitchen that runs its length with every wood fired cooking option covered and it’s conjuring a simply mesmerising mix of smoke and flame-driven aromas. I’m salivating like Pavlov’s dogs… not just one of them; a huge pack of them.
We’ve arrived early, so wait with Bloody Marys and there’s barely a murmur between us as we scour the menu assessing the possibilities, although I do point out that they need to steer away from the turbot at £195. We’re given a choice of two tables, although the one outside feels like it’s almost on the street and too far from the action, so we decide to take the one inside.
Inside dining room
Whilst the menu is set up along a traditional starter-main-dessert route, we’ve opted to go with a sharing plates approach. Our waitress negotiates three dishes to bring as ‘starters’ and three as ‘mains’. I rather like this approach as it means not needing to find room on the table that doesn’t easily exist, as well as getting to enjoy two distinct waves of food.
Hake collars with aioli
We double up on the wood grilled hake collars and we’re advised to eat them as we would chicken wings. The collar is the meaty, fatty bit of a fish at the pectoral fins, behind the gills and when grilled over hot coals, the skin gets all crispy. With no hidden little bones, they’re perfect for dipping in the dreamy accompanying custard-like aioli, topped with burnt onion dust and chives.
Hake collar with aioli
Next up is blanched cabbage and leeks, roasted in a hot wood oven to caramelise and concentrate the flavours, topped with rustic, crunchy bread crumbs, served with sweet, fresh stracciatella—mozzarella curds mixed with cream—and peppery extra virgin olive oil.
Roasted leek & cabbage with fresh cheese
The grilled bread with meaty, salty anchovies is a big ball of light and airy pizza crust; the perfect pocket to fill with cabbage and stracciatella and that completes the first wave.
Grilled bread with anchovies
We’re also motoring through a bottle of Rube Bianco, a natural, medium bodied, dry white that’s crisp with hints of pear and I’m seeking support for a second, but I’m not getting any takers. It’s the one minor disappointment so far; that’s the family, not the wine.
Cornish crab - 1kg
The second wave begins with a whole Cornish crab, gently roasted over the fires. It’s been a constant on the menu for the two years Brat has resided here and it’s not hard to work out why. The brown meat is cooked in the head with vinaigrette and smoked hay butter providing a rich, intensely smoky sauce that’s perfect for the hard won, sweet white meat that has us cracking, probing and scooping like we’re mining for precious metals.
Smoked potatoes
Alongside, we’ve got crunchy skinned, wood oven roasted, smoked potatoes, glistening with butter and a scatter of chives. Finishing up the sides is a bowl of roasted red peppers and butter beans in a succinct stew that tastes like it’s made from a recipe handed down from someone’s Nonna.
Roasted red pepper & butter beans
There are too many juices to leave, so I order a thick slab of lightly toasted bread with burnt onion butter for the mopping finale. I genuinely couldn’t be happier and celebrate with a glass of red.
Bread with burnt onion butter
We’d agreed to have dessert—at the very least one to share—but suddenly aware we’ve a train to catch shakes us out our reverie, so I grab a double espresso and settle up the bill of £226.56 inc. service charge, that’s fully worthy of the 12.5%.
It’s totally our kind of meal… very best quality, native ingredients from some of Britain’s best producers with flavours and textures primed for the palate, cooked skilfully, with and over fire. It’s been another fabulous meal as the backdrop for our catch up.
As we say our goodbyes, our daughter says of the places she’s lived, Hackney is her favourite part of London so far. I’m in full agreement with that.
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED 10/10
374 Helmsley Place, Hackney, London E8 3SB
