Noble Rot Soho

It’s a meaty, minced ragu that tastes like it’s been simmering for days to layer flavour complexities beyond any gaminess. The ‘crushed swede’ makes it another dream pairing, with something in there amplifying its earthy sweetness and its texture is something else… READ MORE

670 Grams

The East-West fusion as a theme reveals a fuller expression with the ‘mains’; First, cod, cured for four hours to firm up the flesh, with fermented koji onion providing the umami magnifying glass with cauliflower and the multiple flavour complexities of goma dare… READ MORE

Pizza Pilgrims

As the first two pizzas are brought to the table, about 35 minutes after we arrived, we’ve still not been brought any beers and our waiter is nowhere to be seen. Eventually, after finding another waiter (by which point we’ve now all got pizzas) we get them READ MORE

150 Club Villa Park

Showcasing dishes from Brad Carter’s Chicken Club, One Star Döner Bar and fine dining from CBC’s Signature Tasting Menu, in the polished surroundings of the 150 Club at Villa Park and it comes with ‘best seats’ in the house to watch the match… READ MORE

Society Birmingham

We’ve got two 7/10 pizzas, Calabrese and Pepperoni; 5/10 sticky teriyaki wings; 4/10 sriracha fries; and the most disappointing of all, a gristle-loaded ‘Reuben’ with bread cut too thick (yes, I know it’s meant to be like that) but it suffocates any flavour… READ MORE

Perro

Corn on the cob, slathered in brown crab mayo is some of the best food I’ve put in my mouth this year. Under its pile of creamy, savoury Spenwood cheese, it’s an umami depth charge with a shockwave of citrussy heat from lime and arbol chilli… READ MORE

La Bellezza

My ‘big carpaccio di manzo’ needs to be relabelled as ‘massive’; it’s a table ‘sharing’ plate of wafer thin, melt-in-the-mouth beef, topped with rocket, semi dried tomatoes, 24-month Parmigiano Reggiano and rich, sweet balsamic vinegar… READ MORE

Drapers Arms

The croutons are too overdone and almost crunch resistant (with 50+ year old teeth), but there’s abundant pleasure in the generous puddle of a lightly citrussy, basil-loaded and peppery EVOO, that’s like a blast of sunshine on your face… READ MORE

CUUBO

The other is at least its equal, featuring a lightly tart, chilled and loose lemon custard with a salted ricotta ice cream float and pistachio and biscuit crumbs for sweetness and crunch. These are both contenders to be my favourite dessert of the year… READ MORE

Satori

My miso-black cod fillet sits on top of ‘stewed’ pak choi, in a puddle of a loose sake butter sauce. It’s underwhelming on the palate although that does leave it clear to appreciate the subtle buttery flavour of the black cod (sablefish) with its silky flakes... READ MORE

Brawn

The BBQ’d squid could only be better if I could hear waves breaking on a beach; it’s easy on the bite, with delicate slices of full flavoured tomatoes, but it’s fruity Taggiasche olives and a citrussy salsa verde that take full charge of the palate… READ MORE

Pasture

We’re advised steaks are cooked ‘French’, so ordering it medium means it sits perfectly between medium and medium rare ensuring enough of the fat marbling has pumped succulence into the aged-tenderised meat, under the caramelisation of its fired crust. It’s pure carnivore heaven… READ MORE