The Woolpack Inn
UNHIDDEN GEM
At some point in the last ten years The Woolpack Inn became as famous as a ‘gastropub’ as being Laurie ‘Cider with Rosie’ Lee’s local. Under head chef Adam Glover, it’s currently number 19 in the Estrella Damm Top 50 Gastropubs. Yet, whilst that list seems primarily concerned with just the quality of the food—with the loosest definition of ‘pub’—this is 100% a pub. It’s in the good beer guide, is the heart of its local community and the toilets are outside, where you’re more likely to find a spider than Aesop hand wash.
The Woolpack Inn, Dining Room
At 6.15 the dining room is already three quarters full, as I squeeze into the narrow, wooden backed bench, before taking it all in… the ceiling mural, candles and roaring log fire. It has the well-worn feel of a favourite old jumper; just the right side of tatty… the wall lights may even be the same as when Laurie Lee last popped in.
The Woolpack Inn Menu 27/12/25
The menu sits at the meeting point of the best of seasonal British, French and Italian country cooking and makes me wish it could be mid-winter forever. We’ve got a bit of a sharing situation going on for the smaller plates and snacks—whilst accommodating the ridiculous needs of a vegetarian—including the obligatory bread and butter (four thick slices of fresh sourdough).
Smoked cod’s roe & onion rings
I couldn’t see past onion rings and they’re seemingly double fried for double the crunch. They’re served with smoked cod’s roe, that could possibly benefit from a lighter whip for scooping, but a crowd pleaser nevertheless and enough of it to outlast the bread.
Radicchio, orange, fennel & Gorgonzola
‘Radicchio, orange, fennel & Gorgonzola’ is missing the fennel but there’s more than enough (and variety of) dressed leaves, that conceal plentiful chunks of creamy dolce Gorgonzola and slices of orange. It’s not especially missing the aniseed kiss of fennel, but it is just some crunch short of perfect.
Pickled sea bass, potatoes, shallots and horseradish
Meaty chunks of pickled sea bass in the ‘soused’ style with sliced shallots and grated horseradish served with good old-fashioned, boiled potatoes, is pure simplicity and probably the pick of the first round.
Domaine Leon Boesch Pinot Blanc 'La Cabane'
We’ve opted for a bottle of La Cabane, an Alsatian Pinot Blanc—a bargain at £53—off their impressive list of 50ish mostly low-intervention wines. It’s pure delight in the mouth, with pear drops, grapefruit, minerality and a sublime finish. Fortunately, there’s just the two of us drinking.
Pumpkin, chestnut and farro stew
It’s not an extensive choice for vegetarians, but he’s very happy with his pumpkin wedges roasted with sage, served on a bed of chestnut and farro stew, with bitter radicchio to keep all the sweetness in check.
Onglet, chips and peppercorn sauce
To my right is a Maillard encrusted onglet, cooked on the dot medium rare (as requested) with likely double fried chips and a glossy peppercorn sauce.
Confit duck leg, mashed swede and red cabbage
A confit duck leg is like butter under its brittle-crisp skin and wins over its owner on the previously unknown joy of mashed swede. But, mine’s the best; a hunk of meltingly-braised, off the bone lamb shoulder, over which is draped a front-foot-sharp salsa verde, that converges with the cooking juices into the gravy, all to be enjoyed with pillowy-soft polenta, that was ultimately the deal maker. I fall into silence for twenty minutes.
Braised lamb shoulder, soft polenta and green sauce
Portions are generous and as time speeds up towards 8pm, we’re still too full to even contemplate looking at desserts... not even one between four. The bill is a frankly outstanding £229.40 (Food £144.50 / Drinks £59.50 / Service £25.40). It’s also worthy of a special note for the service, seemingly powered by the magic of mind-reading.
I’m thankful the Woolpack’s fame has moved beyond Laurie Lee, despite them appearing to wear their ‘gastropub’ accolades somewhat reluctantly. But I think I get it… it’s just a great pub, doing absolutely everything a great pub should.
It just happens to be brilliant at food.
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED
Slad Road, Slad, Stroud GL6 7QA
December 27th 2025
