Bocca di Lupo
CASA DOLCE CASA
When it comes to eating out, my inclination is to try somewhere new and that’s never truer than in London. But it hasn’t always been this way; in the years B.C. (Before Covid) I ate here at least once a year and have probably eaten here more than any other restaurant in the UK.
That said, it’s been a while, and the first since their refurb in summer 2024, that thankfully seems to have left everything more or less intact—not least the long, soft white Carrara marble dining counter that overlooks the open kitchen and giant circular chandelier in the dining room at the back, where we’re headed.
Bocca di Lupo
It’s so well staffed, there’s an industrious energy, onto which is loaded a room packed full of enthralled diners, with conversations combining to create a hum of contentment. I’m further relieved to see nothing’s changed with the regional Italian menu either, with the exception of it changing according to seasonality; mostly available as small or large plates.
Buffalo mozzarella bocconcini
Whilst our vegetarian enjoys two deep-fried buffalo mozzarella bocconcini, three of us attack a large plate of sea bream carpaccio with piranha-like voracity, dressed with orange zest and rosemary, doubling up on the aromatics.
Sea bream, orange and rosemary - large
Politeness is paused until the last of that perfumed oil is dredged from the plate. I’d ordinarily announce it as dish of the day, but I know only too well there’ll be many a contender for that crown today.
Luganega – pork and porcini sausage, roasted Tropea onion
It's as pretty as the food gets; there’s little emphasis placed on sophistication when it comes to presentation. Here, everything is about quality of produce and flavour, that’s no better demonstrated than the luganega—an umami loaded pork sausage coil with porcini mushroom—served with sweet-as-candy, roasted Tropea onion. Thankfully I’ve ordered two.
Radicchio and taleggio lasagne
We’ve also doubled up on the sublime radicchio and taleggio lasagne, with any bitterness held in check by the savoury, fruity tang of the cheese. It’s another one joining the queue for dish of the day.
Roast pumpkin with sage, Parmesan & balsamic
Looking like a Brutalist masterpiece is a generous pile of sweet roasted pumpkin wedges with sage, in a puddle of roasting oil, topped with rustic strips of Parmesan and drizzled with balsamic vinegar. It’s comfort in its purest form.
Cicoria with garlic and chilli
Cicoria has its bitterness tamed by chilli and an abundance of golden garlic slices, whilst turning up its grassy tang. It’s another dish where family politeness is pushed to one side.
Braised chickpeas with tomato, chilli & mint
Easy on the bite, braised chickpeas with a chilli kissed and mint-lifted tomato sauce garners the least enthusiasm across the table, although that leaves me to fully enjoy the lion’s share.
Casisano Rosso di Montalcino 2023
We hit pause, determined to find room for dessert and use the opportunity to finish the wine. It had to be a Sangiovese with this kind of food and our Casisano Rosso di Montalcino delivers on expectations, with soft tannins, cherry, leather and tobacco.
Torta di mele – apple cake and cream
We decide to go big… picking one dessert each; with two torta di mele—an apple-loaded, sponge cake with cream; a caffè zabaione and for me (and me alone); a crème caramel-like bonet, supercharged with chocolate, coffee, rum and crushed amaretti. It’s got to be my favourite dessert of 2025.
Bonet – chocolate, coffee, amaretti, caramel & rum
An espresso with a side of Barolo Chinato—the digestivo of dreams—is the perfect finale. Our bill feels like great value at £275.85 (Food £142 / Drinks £103.20 / Service £30.65).
I’ll definitely be coming back next year. It’s felt like coming home.
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED
12 Archer Street, London W1D 7BB
14th December 2025
