Trillium
ONE STEP BEYOND
The second most notable thing about Birmingham’s city centre dining is its embarrassment of riches when it comes to tasting menus and fine dining. As for the first, since the closure of Opus in 2021, there’s a total absence of a consistently excellent, seasonally dominated menu in a classy dining room.
It’s the role Orelle / 24 Stories seemed perfectly placed to step into, although it rigidly refuses to take that on; too intent on flattering to deceive. As such, it’s been left to Pasture to hold the fort, but despite its consistently excellent food, decent wine list, smart decor and always good vibes, it is fundamentally a steak restaurant; albeit the best in Birmingham, by far.
Trillium menu Dec 2025
Enter Trillium with its dream team of co-owners Glynn ‘Yummy Brummie’ Purnell and Loki’s Phil Innes, plus head chef Rob Palmer, who won Hampton Manor their Michelin Star at Peel’s. Around that holy trinity they’ve hand-picked or attracted key personnel in the various key service posts. And so it would seem, that four year wait is over.
Trillium Milk Loaf / Malt vinegar & chicken fat & 2 x Battered Potato Scallop / Sour cream & chives
We opt for a couple of snacks and a glass each of the classically styled William Fevre Chablis, whilst we chart our journey through the menu, having been told it’s set up to work as sharing plates.
The snacks’ role appears to be as disarmer-in-chief, being pillow-like bread with a puddle of pink peppercorn encrusted liquid gold (chicken fat and malt vinegar); alongside the classic fish-and-chip-shop-eat-in-the-car-on-the-way-home battered potato scallop, albeit under a hefty squirt of sour cream and fresh chives, although that doesn’t hide the requisite dash of vinegar.
Coddled Duck Egg / Smoked almond, truffle, sourdough
We’ve gone for three of the small plates; the first being a not-particularly-easy-to-share and marginally under-coddled duck egg, with its rich creamy yolk pairing beautifully with smoked almond dense foam (or light mousse) and crumb, under a generous topping of fresh winter truffle.
Yellowfin Tuna / Oxtail Bolognese, basil
The second is a puzzling combination of slow-cooked, meat-loaded oxtail Bolognese in a vibrant puddle of grassy basil oil, topped with four slices of seared yellowfin tuna. Whilst it doubles up on the textural melt-in-the-mouth pleasures, the expected subtly-sweet flavour of tuna is completed trounced by the richness of the ragu.
Baked Brixham Line Caught Red Mullet / Celeriac, apple, cider… terrible angle (soz)
A baked fillet of red mullet wins the best starter crown, with its sweetness offset by fresh apple and celeriac two ways; thick slaw-like crunch and roasted puree.
Allram Gruner Veltliner £75
Keeping us lubricated, is an excellent Grüner Veltliner with superb mouth feel and white pepper spiciness, baked apple and crisp pear on the palate. For the second half we’ve gone with a hold-on-to-your-hat-your-phone-and-wallet 16% ripe, black fruit forward, Napa Valley Zinfandel dominant blend. All 40-ish wines are available by the glass (with bottles £37-£150) although there’ll also be a long list (bottle only) available soon.
Orin Swift 8 Years in the Desert Napa Valley £120
We’ve been here getting on two hours and there’s no encouragement for us to speed up and I’d happily stay put for another few hours yet. We’re sat at the open bar overlooking the restaurant and kitchen and, if dining as a pair, it’s probably the best seat in the house. It’s a classy space, with high wall to ceiling windows flooding in light, softened by wood veneers, parquet flooring and cascading green foliage and chandeliers.
Trillium dining room
We’re sharing two mains and two sides; portions are large, so arguably, we’ve got one of each too many (including the wine), but, ever the soldier, I’m determined to push on. A meaty, dense tranche of monkfish tail on the bone, is cooked to absolute perfection. It glistens with an umami-magnified, rich and fragrant Café de Paris butter on a bed of shredded hispi and pairs well with the arroz negro-style baked rice.
Scottish Monkfish Tail / Hispi cabbage, preserved lemon & Café de Paris butter
Gratin of leeks & hazelnut pistou / Trillium baked rice (Background)
By now, I’m just picking at a perfect slow-braised shoulder of lamb that sits on top of meltingly soft, lamb fat onion, with a rich, mint kissed is-it-jus-or-is-it-gravy? The gratin of buttery, creamy leeks under a chunky hazelnut crust is equally only being picked at. I’m done. Utterly stuffed and all those gorgeous sounding desserts will have to wait until the next visit. In fact, next time I’ll definitely play it as starter, main with (probably) shared side and then a pudding with (probably) two spoons… I’ve seen them and they’re huge.
Braised Shoulder of Lamb / Lamb fat onions & mint
It’s just the 10th day since they opened, so there are still some creases to be ironed out, although service has been impeccable throughout. Our bill is a hugely wine-weighted £435.38 (£152.50 Food / £234.50 Drinks / £48.38 Service Charge) but it’s an easily doable £100 a head with good wine, plus service charge.
It’s at least one step beyond Opus… and just what the city needs.
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED
1 Snow Hill Queensway, Birmingham B4 6GH
20th December 2025
