670 Grams
ILLMATIC
It’s my fourth visit and I’m chasing being as completely wowed as I was the first time. But, let’s be clear, I’ve loved it every time… we’re talking fine margins. That said, I was so drunk on my last visit I could barely remember my name, never mind what I’d eaten.
Over those nights—each roughly a year apart—it’s been great to witness the journey the restaurant’s been on. Pretty much the whole of their voyage has been in the rough seas of Covid lockdowns and then in the windless waters of the, seemingly forever, squeeze on household budgets. It’s to their immense credit, they’ve not only battled through, but flourished over that time.
The bold in-yer-face styling is still very much present, with the boho downstairs bar blending gothic and industrial modern styling, but it feels more grown up. A major change is that it’s now fully honed for the complete experience; perfect for settling yourself in with aperitivos and amuse bouche or a post-meal night cap.
Signature Tasting Menu
Nose-to-tail venison—received weekly from Stirchley-based Ethical Game—runs as a thread through the meal, with the first encounter (alongside the always crowd-pleasing Kray FC), a pure gamey ‘tar tar’ under earthy beetroot gel; then, as offal-bold pâté made from the heart, on a thoroughly disarming cep and brown butter waffle. There’s no tip toeing in.
Amuse bouche / Kray FC; Englefield Eastate Tar Tar; Venison Heart Waffle
That said, the next two courses are like a massage for the soul with the Bovril of my dreams ‘Welcome Broth’ from roasted bones and more venison in salami, alongside milk loaf and cultured butter.
Welcome Broth; roasted bones, nostalgia / Our Daily Bread; milk loaf, cultured butter
Keeping the homely feel, a ratte potato turned on the BBQ for 4 hours creates a remarkable transformation of its texture, under a cloak of frothed milk cooked with the bones of smoked eel, crème fraiche and pickled chive.
Orkney Scallop; spiced pumkin, roe kimchi, kaffir lime
Orkney scallop is served with spiced pumpkin 3 ways, crusty rosti, puree and foam with roe kimchi offering an umami-tempered kick heightened with fragrant kaffir lime. We’re also brought a bonus ‘under development’ dish of miso custard, pickled maitake, caviar, and fresh truffle that pushes all the savoury pleasure buttons.
The best things in life are free
The East-West fusion as a theme reveals a fuller expression with the ‘mains’; First, cod, cured for four hours to firm up the flesh, with fermented koji onion providing the umami magnifying glass with cauliflower and the multiple flavour complexities of goma dare.
Peterhead Market Cod; koji onion, cauliflower, goma dare
Then, seared venison loin, with umami-loaded black garlic, meaty and earthy maitake, sweet and savoury melty-oniony ‘tasty paste’ and a rich, aromatic Massaman broth.
Is it a duck? No, it’s Englefield Estate venison, black garlic, maitake mushroom, ‘tasty paste’, Massaman
Being a school night, I’m reining it in; resisting the appeal of a one of their drink flights—wine; prestige; or boozy—there’s non-alcoholic too, for those so inclined, but that’s just not me. We’ve opted for a lesser spotted Georgian Rkatsiteli, with orchard fruits on the nose, fleshier fruits on the palate and crisp minerality. It holds up well with everything thrown at it.
Tbilvino Rkatsiteli
The transition to dessert is in two parts; first leaning towards the savoury with umami loaded cep and vanilla ice cream, with musky autumn truffle and bitterness from burnt white chocolate.
Cep & Tahitian Vanilla; autumn truffle, olive oil
Milk Street; crumble, ice cream, crispy
The second leans towards sweet, without fully committing, with milk ice cream, milky-dusty crumble and milk crackers; it’s a sublime love letter to milk.
1926; Tulakalum, roasted almonds, PX prunes
The dessert proper is a heaven made homage to Cadbury Fruit & Nut with immaculate, tuile topped crémeux from Tulakalum chocolate, roasted almonds and prunes marinated in Pedro Ximinez sherry.
End of the night / Dining Room
Alas, it’s all over bar the pop it in your gob, close your eyes and purr ‘Custard Factory Tart’. And then the all too rare joy of not picking up the bill… although I know the signature tasting meal is £115 per person and the wine around £60-65… So, for less than £300 plus service charge that’s fantastic value.
Custard Factory Tart; Ithaka spent coffee custard, passionfruit, crispy milk
Looking back to that first visit, it played like a greatest hits album of a band you didn’t know you liked; mostly bangers but a bit all over the place. This latest incarnation of 670 Grams now plays like a classic album, with structure, depth and delicious consistency at its core.
670 Grams have fully found their groove.
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED
4 Gibb St, Custard Factory, Digbeth, Birmingham B9 4AA
