Indian Cafe Racer
GLOW UP
Indian Café Racer is one of those restaurants with significantly more of a fanbase than a clientele. All the reasons for that have been in place from the very start; their consistently excellent Indian ‘street food’, always impeccable service and a hugely Shazamable soundtrack that nurtures the warm, friendly vibe.
I bet it didn’t particularly bother anyone that it was behind a curtain, at the back of a sports bar, it kind of added to the charm. But for owner Azad, being frustrated by the many things he was powerless to change, was the push he needed to open Indian Café Racer v2.
So it is, I’m seated at the elegant Carrara marble cocktail bar, under pleated linen, pendant lights, marvelling at the cocktail menu. It’s an impressive almost-impossible-to-pick-just-one-from list of fifteen Café Racer Signatures and House Classics—plus four Farzi Guru 0% mocktails too—all with a seductive Indian spin.
Between 2 Sherries
On the evidence of our drinks… mine’s an outstanding aperitif ‘Between Two Sherries’—dry and sweet sherries, dry vermouth, bittersweet Chinotto Nero, bay leaf cordial and cardamon bitter—it’s now a bona fide go to cocktail destination too.
Old Fashioned / Pandan leaf, red miso, green & black cardamon, milk washed
It’s like a grown-up, suited and booted version of their dining room at The Wellington; a roomier space with classier furnishings, not least the luxuriously padded banquettes. It all conspires to evoke a bygone age and a trip to the loo no longer bursts the fantasy into which everybody’s happy to buy into.
Now operating at two sites, the worry is whether the food remains every bit as delicious. A double birthday celebration, with two ICR newbies in our group of four, gives me the perfect opportunity to find out. I’ve been handed the responsibility of ordering, so for once I’m not solely focusing on the dishes I know and love.
Dahi puri
As for the old favourites, delicate dahi puri work like an amuse bouche, showering sweet and savoury crunch on the palate. Meanwhile, gobi manchurian retains its crown as ‘best ever’ with crispy, golden-fried cauliflower florets, wok tossed in a tangy sauce.
Gobi manchrian
Somosas
The pasty style, fatty lamb mince somosas remain at their decadent best. I’ve ordered both the veg and meat samosas, which gives us two of each, but rather shamelessly I’ve grabbed mine before there was even a discussion on how we’ll go about sharing. Oh well, you snooze, you lose.
Spice lamb chops
The spicy lamb cutlets—marinated overnight, then chargrilled in the tandoor for a resistance free bite—are still Brum’s best and the generously loaded, tender Rajastani lamb—slow-cooked in its medium-spiced gravy, with just a kiss of smoke—is still the curry against which I measure all others.
Rajastani lamb
Lamb biryani
Of the dishes I’ve not tried before, the stand out is a layered, succulent lamb leg biryani that’s lightly spiced, yet bursting with aromatics. It’s not so much moreish as addictive; as usual I’ve over ordered, but it keeps pulling me back in for more until I’ve pretty much scoffed the lot.
Broccoli GT65
Another dish jostling its way onto the favourites list is Broccoli GT 65, with more crispy fried florets, albeit in a fresher, spicier sauce than the gobi manchurian.
A fragrant, buttery and creamy paneer makhani is so rich it threatens gout, but all the better for that and papdi chat is delightfully crunchy, hot, sweet and sour with a gorgeous rosewater perfume.
Three bottles of Cobra and sparkling water brings the bill in at £163.80 (Food £101.00 / Drinks £62.80) + £20 tip. It’s been a triumphant birthday feast, in a setting that must go a long way towards satisfying Azad’s vision.
They’ve gained two more super fans and I’ve a sneaking feeling we’ve not even reached peak Indian Café Racer yet.
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED
88-90 Bristol Street, Birmingham B5 7AH
www.indiancaferacer.com
21/03/26
