All tagged Birmingham city centre
We’ve got two 7/10 pizzas, Calabrese and Pepperoni; 5/10 sticky teriyaki wings; 4/10 sriracha fries; and the most disappointing of all, a gristle-loaded ‘Reuben’ with bread cut too thick (yes, I know it’s meant to be like that) but it suffocates any flavour… READ MORE
My ‘big carpaccio di manzo’ needs to be relabelled as ‘massive’; it’s a table ‘sharing’ plate of wafer thin, melt-in-the-mouth beef, topped with rocket, semi dried tomatoes, 24-month Parmigiano Reggiano and rich, sweet balsamic vinegar… READ MORE
It’s certainly a flavour bomb, spraying all the taste receptors with salty funk from blue cheese, eventually giving way to sour heat from buffalo sauce and umami loaded, salty-sweet candy bacon crumb all… READ MORE
What we’ve got is dry-grilled, pre-cooked stewing steak that whilst not chewy per se, it’s far more of a jaw exercise and massively less joy than its name promises. A benign bacon ketchup provides no real support other than wetness… READ MORE
My favourite of the lot—an almost impossible decision… so, let’s go joint first—was the smoked and pickled Cornish mussels, with its umami-charmed sour in harmony with the sweet, warming heat of fatty Iberico ‘nduja… READ MORE
We’re advised steaks are cooked ‘French’, so ordering it medium means it sits perfectly between medium and medium rare ensuring enough of the fat marbling has pumped succulence into the aged-tenderised meat, under the caramelisation of its fired crust. It’s pure carnivore heaven… READ MORE
The biggest surprise is whilst the Kagoshima wagyu A5 is indeed the fat-primed meat bomb that’s expected and further boosted by an umami-loaded 4-year-old soy sauce, it’s matched stride by stride by a buttery, crusted pommes Anna-style hash brown… READ MORE
There’s more crunch fail from the deep fried Mars Bar that should be the eponymous hero of the dish, but the under cooked batter is an unpleasant texture. Whilst that’s a huge disappointment, the rest is a sticky, sweet, crunchy and chocolatey dream and then there’s the smile inducing Irn Bru sorbet… READ MORE
The seared and sliced hanger steak is perfectly medium rare and very easy on the jaw, although it’s totally let down by the accompanying herb-lite and vinegar heavy ‘chimichurri’ featuring what seem to be coriander seeds providing a hugely unwelcome grittiness to proceedings… READ MORE
First up is gol gappa; crispy shells filled with chick peas, potato and vermicelli, accompanied with a sweet pouring sauce with a spicy kick, loaded with tamarind and mint. We clash knuckles going for the final shell, but I’m there first and they’re far too addictive for me to even consider any act of chivalry… READ MORE
My dressed crab is everything I want from a plate of food; there’s lightly sweet buttermilk with citrussy-anise attitude from a dill coulis swirl, freshness and crunch in abundance from rainbow radish and tart, green apple, but the sweet, delicate flavour of the crab still takes centre stage… READ MORE
I’ve no plate envy whatsoever, with my herb flecked pappardelle, topped with a white ragú of slow braised shreds of lamb. It’s surprisingly light and fresh, allowing the sweetness of the lamb to rightly do all the hard work, although there’s a third too much pasta than the sauce requires… READ MORE
With the last two dishes having merely teased my sweetness receptors, this next one goes straight in, on full seduction mode, yet it’s the salty, fatty crunch of pork scratchings that’s putting honey sweetness in the spotlight from a chocolate ‘mousse’ and a velvety orange curd… READ MORE
Wonderfully densely meaty frankfurters with a quiet kick of chilli that builds slowly. And credit to the curry sauce that offers no more sophistication than generic curry powder. It’s perfect and exactly as I remember it in Berlin, although they’d be goose stepped out of there with a price tag of £16.50… READ MORE
Next up is beetroot poached in a red wine sauce. It’s another ‘oh wow’ dish for both the eyes and palate with sweet earthiness of beetroot, pungency rather than heat from wasabi and subtle nutty earthiness and crunch from the linseed wafer… READ MORE
My ‘New York style hot dog’ looks like it’s been flown in from JFK, but that thought is snatched away with the first bite, with the flavour of pure British banger. Although it’s the soggy, barely warm, mess of shoestring fries, that rings the alarm bell… READ MORE
Our only conversation is to marvel at impeccably crunchy and fluffy in the middle roast potatoes; perfectly gnarly Yorkshires, beef that’s every bit the pink, tender fillet you’d expect; subtle sweetness from the roasted roots; and gravy that’s bolder than a drunken stag party… READ MORE
With expectations for the rest of the meal already cranked up to maximum, Wye Valley Asparagus with Cornish caviar then pushes a turbo button. A verdant sauce manages to smell even greener than it looks, but delivers pure umami to amplify the otherwise subtle flavours on the plate… READ MORE
Rosa’s green curry (with more dry chicken) dangling the carrot of three out of three on the chilli scale merely confirms it’s not so much a recalibration of the scoville scale in the kitchen that’s required but a reprint of the menus… READ MORE
A potential winner for the ‘best dish of the year’ crown is next. Barbecued octopus, crisp and caramelised on the outside and wonderfully tender on the bite, a stunning langoustine tartare with a hint of Thai spices, Exmoor caviar and an aloe vera emulsion. I’d happily eat this on a loop for eternity… READ MORE